The original doors had cardboard "filler" inside of them. Any leaks at all and the filler rotted and you were left with a very flimsy door. If the door skin is okay, they can easily be rebuilt. If you're looking for a totally new door though, Aimee in Alaska was very pleased with the door she had built by these folks:

• R & G Mobile Home Supply (Philips door)
• All Rite also makes custom doors in many styles
• Rebuild of a 1961 Scotty door (Nancy Kroes)
• Rebuild of a 1969 Scotty door (Nancy Kroes)
• Painting a door hinge/frame (Nancy Kroes)
• Replacing the fabric hinge cover (Dan Russell)
• Zach reports that the screen door takes a .190 screen spline.

1961 Scotty Door Rebuild

Remove the jalousy window unit first. This is held in with screws on the inside.

Like the '69 below, the inside of the door was cardboard

New frame made out of white cedar - lightweight and rot resistent

Openings filled in with styrofoam - adds structure, yet lightweight

1969 Scotty Door Rebuild

Remove door window first. It has a locking gasket. Use a screw driver to unlock the gasket and then very carefully remove the window. No easy way to do it - it will be difficult.

Remove the seal and glass from the inside of the door.
The seal (channel) should be replaced with a new seal.
Glass shops should carry it.

Lower left corner of the door in-side. Bottom, top and lock side of the door
are crimped. We only uncrimped the top and bottom,
the door was then slid out from the hinge side.

Hinge edge of door - not crimped

Top edge (crimped) of door

Door apart, this is the inside of the in-side.

Inside of the out-side. Completely rotted from the lock down.
Appears that the leakage came from around the lockset.

A close-up of the rot around the lockset.

Top part of the framing still in perfect condition, but cardboard was
used as the stabilizer. I'll use 1 1/4" thick styrofoam in my rebuild!

I had some clear white cedar, the exact dimensions as the original framing.
Marking it here for mortices, the most sturdy option available.

Making the mortices on a dedicated morticing machine.

The first step in creating the tenons to fit into the mortices

The second step in creating the tenons

And the final step in creating the tenons

A completed mortice and tenon

The new frame lying on the door - a perfect fit!

And, the frame - still lacking the styrofoam.

Replacing the fabric hinge cover

The fabric covering of the piano door hinge was disintegrated. In asking around, I was sent to a local shop that does custom sewing for awnings, ATV and snowmobile seat cushions etc. The owner suggested I try a "polymer canvas" which goes by the trade name "Top gun".. He sold me a strip 5" by 6' for $1. He said I probably would never see the end to it. It really does seem quite tough. I replaced mine. A couple of hints in doing so. Drilling out the rivets from the door side was quite a chore, next time I would try removing the door frame first, I had to do this anyway, and drilling them out from the back side. Also, don't forget that extra fabric is needed to close the door, so don't put the fabric tight on an open hinge. I attached to the  outside frame side first and then sandwiched between the door and the hinge, closed the hinge (door) and trimmed off the extra. 

Top Gun fabric - considered the best outside fabric around!

Done!