Join the NSSO History of Serro Scotty Resources we have found and used Pictures of Scotty projects Upcoming events and pictures from previous events Monthly newsletters of the NSSO Buy Scotty apparal and more fun stuff Contact Us
Nancy Kroes' 1958 Scotty Tear Drop Rebuild


Page two, Finished pictures

Camping in 1967 with the son/daughter-in-law of the original owners

In 1977, honeymooning with the granddaughter of the original owners

Purchased on April 24, 2010 from the granddaughter of the original owners
who'd purchased it after retirement in 1958 and toured the US with it

Broken door and front window - rotted plywood - a total rebuild project

Water filler cap was removed by saved and will be put back on

Kitchen hatch door was removed and is just sitting there

Has two of the early art deco style Bargman locks - note they aren't pitted!
And, two of the early style metal logos. YAY.

A stop for gas and to air up the tires

Rides really good - sits level

Compared to the Tear Drop, my Rear Door is a GIANT!

Another comparison shot

Mabel gives it her stamp of approval - kitchen is all original
(except for the cooler)

The original enamelware wash basin is still there - very CUTE!

The rebuilt door with its new window.
I used white cedar for the framing and filled all gaps with styrofoam insulation.

Ted, moved up into the Scottyport - April 10, 2011

September, 2011, the rebuild begins

Edge strips removed, after moving him to my dad's heated shop garage

The famous silver paper "insulation"

1/4" plywood on top of 2x2 framing member, along the kitchen hatch

Side skins removed. More silver paper insulation.

No side to side framing for the front window. Just a picture frame type.

Front skin removed. Wires went to a 12 volt light inside.

Wires were taped in place.

One side off. This was the easy side. Very rotted along the floor and front.

Side view of the cabinets. All were nailed in place through the side ply.

Not much left

Storing for later after the rebuild begins.

Getting ready to remove the floor - noting they had caulked all around
between the floor and the sides

Only 4 bolts holding floor to frame. Three across the front and one in the middle
of the rear. Amazing. I will put 3 in each of the 3 cross beams.

Lower kitchen framing

And, Ted is now just a frame. No 2" square steel framing for Ted!

The "power wire brush" I speak of so often

Does a fantastic job cleaning up the frame

I found the VIN! On top of the left arm as you face the trailer.
5810147 - that's right, he's number 147 of 225 made.

Underside of frame after 1 coat of POR 15 and 1 coat of glossy POR 15 Overcoat

Frame all painted and overcoated. Shop reorganized for my trailer
rebuild and winter storage of brother-in-law's boat. Using the big@ss drill
to drill more holes in the frame to attach the new floor. Originally
Serro had only 3 bolts across the front, and one in the middle of the rear.

Added two more holes to rear frame and one in the middle of the middle (of 3) frames

Bottom of floor is framed. Serro only used the 3 long pieces.
The addition of the cross pieces is my improvement. They run under
the metal frame members.

A Dutch Boy paint product - extreme exterior primer/paint

After spraying with POR15 spray on undercoat. I do not like this as well
as Herculiner and won't use it again. Herculiner gives a thicker rubbery coating.

Floor is installed on the trailer frame

Knotty cedar v-groove paneling strips that will be laminated to the 1/2"
foil one side wafer board. This after a coat of Cetol 1 in Teak.

Top board, after Cetol 1. Bottom board, after Cetol 23

Done! All 43 strips are now Cetol 23'd!

Both side walls laminated and drying

One original side wall - nails removed and ready to be used as a pattern

Windows and eyebrows back from Mark Denlinger. WOW - fantastic job.

One side cut out. I don't normally like to cut out the window opening until
the trailer is put back together but my plan for the exterior necessitated
cutting the window (and the door) openings out first. Hope it all fits!
The white on the bottom is where the side will attach to the frame. I added 1/4"
to the 1/2" plywood and want to eat that extra 1/2" out of the interior space —
not make my trailer 1/2" wider overall. This way the skin should still fit!
The blue is masking tape - one more coat of paint yet to go on there.

After looking at the original door side, determined it was way too rotted
to use as a pattern for the new side. Used the first new side. Just remember
to put the two INSIDES together so you get two different sides and not two of the
same side. It's been done - not by me, but it is easy enough to make that mistake.

Here's why I couldn't use this side. I did have to put it on the new cut out
side to mark the door opening and drill the 3 holes for the fenders.

The two new sides. Door opening is marked and holes drilled in its four corners,
but opting to not cut it out until the side is attached to the trailer for stability.

Wrapping the bottom edge with a sticky butyl product (see next picture)

This product is used in construction to seal around windows and doors, under siding

Sides attached with clamps - with my sister DeeAnn's help (thanks DeeAnn!)

And now screwed and bolted on. Teardrops have a different frame than bigger
Scottys - C channel, not 2" square. Three bolts through the frame on each
side and then I screwed (originally was nailed) through the sides into the floor ply.

And we have a trailer again. Door is marked and ready to cut out.
Has just the look I was going for.

Using the bolt holes for the exterior fenders, clamped the skins on
to test how accurate my cut outs were. Both door and window, spot on!

That hole is a water filler cap. Cannot figure out why it had one.
No signs there was ever any kind of a water tank. Will seal it and add it back.

Spent a lot of time doing calculations and trying to figure out
how this mess went together. I'll be doing mine a bit differently, but still...

Jump to Page two


National Serro Scotty Organization | Delton, Michigan 49046