Repacking Your Bearings
Be
sure as you repack your bearings that you keep all the parts
from each wheel separate from the other. If any of your
bearing parts are damaged and you need to replace them, about $100 to do both sides.
- Outer bearing assembly: Timken 09067
- Outer bearing race: Timken 09195
- Inner bearing assembly: Timken 15123
- Inner bearing race: Timken 15245
- Inner seal: Chicago Rawhide CR 16811
- or
National 44C265 S6C or GW-240-144-6 or NAPA 16811
Applied Industries Technologies
1 McCullough Drive
New Castle, DE 19720-2007
(302) 328-9557
Park
trailer on a flat level location where ground is firm.
Block
your tires and loosen the lug nuts.
Lower
your trailer tongue as far down as it goes.
Place
jack stands under both metal rails behind the tires.
An SUV
version that will raise 21" is recommended, but not
necessary.
Place
your jack under one rail and jack up as high as it will go
and then
raise your jackstand up to that level. Do the same
on the opposite side.
When
you have both wheels well off the ground, raise your trailer
tongue
back up to level the trailer, which will raise the
wheels even higher
and allow the axle to drop so wheels may
be removed.
Finish
removing both wheels, but be sure to keep all parts separated, by wheel.
Unscrew
the dustcap. If you have to use channel locks to loosen,
be careful, they may be only plastic!
Clean
off the grease to expose the cotter pin.
Straighten it out
and remove it.
Now,
remove the bearing nut.
Gently
pull the hub towards you, which allows the outer bearing
to move forward. Be careful not to allow the bearing to drop
on the ground.
Push the hub back and remove the bearing and
the washer.
Remove
the hub and place it, backside down, between two pieces of
lumber.
Using a hammer and a wooden dowel, catch the back
edge of
the inner bearing and tap it lightly until both it
and the seal come out.
Inner
bearing and seal removed.
Remove
as much of the old grease as possible using a rag or paper
towel.
Then
place all the removed parts into a can (coffee can works
great) and pour
solvent (gasoline will work, just be
careful!) over them.
Let them sit a few minutes and using
a brush, thoroughly clean all the parts.
If
you have a compressor, use it to blow out the bearing to
assure all old grease is removed. If you don't have one,
just be sure the grease is gone.
A cleaned bearing!
Check
your inner bearing seal to be sure it shows no damage.
If
it does, it will have to be replaced.
Both
sides should be clean, with no gouges or scrapes.
After
cleaning both the inside and the outside of the hub,
use
some of your grease to grease the inside of the inner hub.
Now
put a walnut-sized lump of grease into the palm of your hand
and work it, from the bottom, into the inner bearings.
The
grease should be pushing out the top of the bearing when
it is fully greased.
When
the bearing is fully greased, insert it back into the hub
and then lightly tap the seal back on.
Now,
turn the hub over and grease the inside of the outer hub.
After
cleaning the spindle (where hub was removed from) completely,
place the freshly greased hub back on it.
Grease
(repack) the outer bearing the same way you did the inner
and then place it back into the greased outer hub, followed
by the washer.
Now,
replace the bearing nut.
- Snug
the nut all the way down and spin the hub around several times.
Then back the nut off one of the notches in the nut, and replace
the cotter pin. It is probably best to use a new cotter pin, and
not reuse the old one which you removed.
- Replace
the cleaned dust cap.
- Replace
the wheel and finger-tighten the nuts.
- Lower
the trailer by reversing the steps used in raising it.
- Tighten
your lug nuts and you are good to go for another 10,000 miles!
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