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NSSO Home > Resources
Air Conditioning
From Rob at Vintage Vacations: I
choose a variation
on installing the unit on drawer slides under the dinette
bench with a cargo door for access. The idea was so simple;
it should have won an award! The unit was secured to a
piece of plywood, on heavy duty drawer slides. At the campground,
open the door, slide the unit out, and turn it on.
The “inventor” took care of several issues
with the installation, noise was reduced by the dinette
framing and cushions, correct balance was maintained by
placing the unit forward of the axle, and the only modification
to the trailer was a vent in the face of the dinette frame.
From Mark Judd:A drawing is always worth a 1000 (or more) words!
But basically you need to make sure that the hot air exit vents are not blowing that air into the hot air intake vents at the back of the A/C unit, the part which is outside the camper.
The hot air getting sucked into the A/C unit should be at ambient temperature, so it should be like about 90 - 100F and the air exiting the A/C unit is going to be about 120 or 130F, so you need to make sure this air does not find its way back to the hot air intake vent, or your unit will never cool.
Same with the inside of the Scotty. The cold air intake vent needs to suck air in that is from the same room the cooling air is exiting to. Cooling air is about 60F and cool air intake vent is about 80F (at least after the Scotty cools down a bit). If this cool exit air finds its way back into the cooling side of the A/C unit with out warming up first, it will freeze up your cooling coils and no cold air will come out.
The best bet (but not so simple) way to hook up an A/C window unit is in an actual window of the camper, that is what it was made for. But many have had very good success with more complicated methods, but that would take some vent fans and duct work to get it workingcorrectly. Hope this helps. Mark
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